Chalk tool for marking the hem allowance.We will be using the 1 1/8 inch mark on the gauge to mark the hem allowance.For regular jeans, using 2 plates was sufficient in this tutorial.Perfect for leveling the presser foot when it reaches or leaves behind a thick cross seam.Composed of 3 thin plates that pivot on a rivet, this tool allows you to insert a thin/medium/thick layer under the bottom of a presser foot to level it against uneven fabric layers.If using the thick yellow or gold ‘jeans’ thread, a Topstitch needle size 100 may be necessary.A size 90 is usually sufficient if using common sewing threads (as in this tutorial).They also have a stronger shank compared to other types of needles of the same size.Jeans needles are sharp, a must for hemming denim.In combination with Foot #8, it helps prevent needle bending, which can lead to broken needles.It is a straight stitch foot to aid in going through heavy layers.If your machine has this feature, don’t miss out on it! It will leave your hands free to handle the jeans leg, especially with a double turned hem, especially while placing the bottom of the leg around the BERNINA Freearm. It cruised through the project without blinking.

The images below were taken from hemming a pair of jeans on a trusty 3 Series BERNINA, our entry level machine. The secret to a successful and easy jeans hem is in the tools. NOTE: This tutorial is based on a 1/2 inch double-turned hem, similar to that found in ready-to-wear jeans. Trim the hem allowance to 1 1/8 inch and double turn.TIP: Measure each leg separately as your legs may vary slightly in length (mine do by about 1/4 inch). Measure and pin the length of the finished jeans legs.And there is a straightforward way to deal with that. The only potential challenge is the thickness encountered at the cross seams. The process of hemming jeans is just as simple as with any other pair of pants. Hemming jeans has a reputation for being hard.

How to hem jeans